July 3 – Sainte Chapelle

Jul10

Slept in today, nothing planned. The weather cleared and I felt it warming up. Slowly I got going and made myself a drip coffee. M&S sold a box of 10 drip coffee by-the-cup and they’re great. Once done, I decided to meet Sainte Chapelle, the one place I missed on my last trip.

Deciding to eat before it gets too late, I had a quick “hot dog au gratin” while sitting at the fountain at St. Michel to people watch. Then, I made the short but crowded walk to the Ile and got in the short line to the site. Sainte Chapelle is on the property of the old palais. Today, the palace houses the city’s Palace of Justice. Security is tight here because of the daily access to police services. Once inside the main walls, I see how the 13th century chapel sits attached to the larger building, the former palais. I followed around the fenced church to the chapel’s public entrance where I bought my ticket and the 3€ audio (always a good thing).

Ground level was reserved for worshippers who served the royals in the palace. Dark, simple, but beautiful, the space now serves as partial gift shop with information stations along the sides.

Next, I climbed 32 steps up a narrow stone passage (one on each side of the entrance wall) to reach the main level of the chapel. Stepping out into the nave, Sainte Chapelle’s glorious stained glass windows fill my view. King Louis IX attended Mass with his family here seven centuries ago. The windows told wonderful stories of devotion to Our Lord and highlighted the journeyed process of the King to obtain relics of Jesus Christ. He charged his ever-faithful mother, Blanche of Castile (Spain), with the task to travel to Constantinople to bid on the sacred objects, the Crown of Thorns and wood pieces of the Cross. Sainte Chapelle would be home of the heavenly King’s reliquary and through possession, Louis would be blessed and seen as France’s earthly king. King Louis tasked builders to include his mother in the stained glass window scenes to honor her. Later, he would obtain other significant relics to the collection including the Lance that pierced Jesus. Some of the pieces were lost or destroyed over time and the wars waged, but some still exist, housed in separate locations in France. King Louis IX established many of the tenets of the justice system we hold dear today, like innocent until proven guilty. Known all his life as compassionate, especially to the poor, and a generous, wise ruler, he was canonized as Saint Louis, the only French king to become a saint.

How can a French gratin hot dog be bad? Yummy with The Real Thing!

Fountain at Blvd. St. Michel. – isn’t it lovely?

The Blessed Mother greets me.

My first look at the royal Sainte Chapelle, upper level.

See where the reliquary would rest, the recreated gold box above the sanctuary.

July 2 – My toothpaste is gone

Jul9

Cat needed to return home and I made the arrangements in Ireland. I knew it was going to be sad and put the thought out of my head till Sunday, Departure-Day. Crack of dawn we rose to be sure we rolled the cases back to the Metro/RER in time for her 9:15 AM plane. We left the apartment at 6AM.

She had 10 days in Ireland and Northern Ireland and loved it. We saw plenty of sheep and green countryside, deep, wide rivers, enjoyed our friends, and saw a new part of the world. But today, she would leave mid-trip with just a brief kiss-kiss on France’s cheeks. We made the best of it but every step broke my heart.

Cat took back our carry-on stuffed with our purchases – I’m still surprised I had the presence of mind to think of it. Then I wouldn’t have to wrestle with two going home. Her big case checked, passport and boarding pass in-hand, wheelie carry-on by her side, I hugged her goodbye over and over. Higher and higher the escalator took her to the security check, we waved again and I watched her fade into Charles DeGaulle Terminal 1.

It was really hard for me to leave the airport. I didn’t plan on sending her home early. I decided to buy a coffee and settle myself before making my solo trip to the city. Napkins wadded and coffee drunk, checking my watch to be sure her plane loaded up, no sign of her returning, I made my way to the station for the return train.

Between my tears, knowing she’d be fine, that her brother would be there to receive her, I thought about what to do next. The day was another overcast, muggy day that fit my mood, threatening to shower, just an all-around imperfect day in Paris. But I eventually made it back, went for another coffee and a Croque monsieur to set me right while I watched the light rain come down and waited for the grocer to open at noon. Yes, noon. Unlike in the states, Sunday’s a true day of rest in France. Some shops are absolutely closed all day. The weekend “pause” is built into their economy. Though I wanted to get on with my shopping, the pause makes so much sense.

Shopping done in half the time, only for one, I reached the apartment. I had planned to buy fresh flowers to enjoy et, voilá, a florist shop is right next door. I filled the day with laundry, cleaning my Airbnb, rethinking my vacation plan, killing time. I simply could not think about going out. Feeling lost and reaching for more tissues, I decided a nap was in order. Tomorrow should be brighter. Except I realized then, my back-up tube of toothpaste is on a United flight to SFO.

The shopping, even Cat would approve.

Laundry day, air drying in the French breeze.

Flowers to make the space feel like home.

July 1 – On to Paris

Jul9

Up and ready, Cat and I had breakfast in the Kildare’s pub. Surprisingly, we slept fine – the “#1 Rated Dance Pub” didn’t keep us up. Not bad for a Saturday night, thankfully. We met the pre-arranged taxi at the curb at 11 AM to drive us to the airport. Our Air France flight would leave for Paris at 2:15 PM.

The taxi drivers in Ireland treated us well and we enjoyed conversations along our route. During this ride, Cat realized she had not handed off the room key to the desk, but our driver said he would gladly return it for us. Phew, the luck of the Irish was with us!

With time to spare, we made it through the Dublin Airport to security and found the gate. But then, the plane came in an hour late. Oo, la, la, our Airbnb host awaited our arrival in Paris to give us the apartment key. I prayed we wouldn’t have any other delays. We boarded at 3:30 for the nearly two-hour flight and we made it á Paris on time from thereon.

Wrestling with cases, finding the RER rail station, purchasing tickets, trudging on, the day ticked off before we knew it. And it didn’t help that we were running on empty, hence our prickliness, but we literally kept rolling. Popping out of the Cluny-Sorbonne Metro and rolling 3 blocks down and 3 more over past the Sorbonne in the heart of the Latin Quartier, Maxime dashed from a sidewalk bistro table across from the building to help us get situated.

Once up in our 6th floor nest via an elevator just slightly larger than a service lift (we had to go up separately with our 1 bag each, our 20-something host charged up the stairs), we caught our breath. Two tall windows open to a view of the Pantheon dome. Step out on the railed decks, below us, the Rue des Ecoles, sidewalk bistro humming, no tourists, no traffic, the Paris sky above. Magique!

We have a two room studio with kitchenette, shower the size of a phone booth, washer/dryer, what more could we need? Cat and I headed down the street to Pizza Roma to share a Margarita pizza and pesto pasta, and glasses of rose for our dinner. Honestly, it was a delicious pizza. Finishing at 9:45, we still had enough daylight (and enough energy) to stroll to Notre Dame over the Seine. The day’s heat still lingering, we reached the plaza where people walked about enjoying the evening. And, quelle surpris, rats scurrying along the landscaped edges searching for goodies around the litter cans! I felt like I was in a scene from Ratatouille.

That was all we could fit, after the flight delay. I hoped to get Cat to see the Eiffel Tower but it wasn’t meant to be. We walked back to the 5eme arrondisement ready to collapse into sleep.

Tomorrow, Cat has to return home…

A small plane for a short trip. I almost expect to see propellers…

The Sorbonne is just past the park.

View out the window, the Pantheon and French flag.

To the left, lights of neighboring hotels. The red awning is our pizza restaurant. Paris on this side of the Seine is, oh, so walkable.

June 30 – Returning to Dublin

Jul9

Cat and I enjoyed an early breakfast included in our stay at the Holiday Inn Express. As much as possible, I like booking with more intimate lodging but I thought we needed “a package deal” to set us off right. We met the pre-arranged taxi at the curb at 11 AM to drive us to the bus station for the 2-hour drive to Dublin. Farewell, Belfast.

All went well, arriving in due time. A taxi delivered us to the Kildare Street Hotel in Dublin. Needing a snack, we crossed the street to a little French bistro for a cup of tea and piece of almond cake. Then we rested a bit in our room before heading to an early dinner before the 7:30 Riverdance performance.

The show was a real treat. Cat spied our friend, Miriam, in the troupe. The dancing and music were amazing, moving from dramatic routines to fun, lively dances presenting a story of the birth of dance and its deep, cultural roots through time.

We were excited to meet Miriam and her sweetie Aiden at the stage door after the performance. Another memory to wrap up our trip to Ireland.

Heading back to our room, we readied ourselves for tomorrow’s flight to Paris.

A delicious cup of Irish tea and one of the best slices of cake ever – one I’m going to try to recreate!

Down Kildare Street from our hotel room with the National Museum only a few steps away.

At the Gaiety Theatre, Dublin

We did it. We snuck down to better seats during intermission. We wanted to see Miriam up close!

Our new friends, Miriam Lee and Aiden, of Riverdance dance company in Dublin.

June 29 – A day in Belfast

Jul7

Our day began catching the 1:30 train from Derry to Belfast where we would enjoy visiting with Eleanor at Queen’s U. The relaxing rail ride took us away from our Derry friends into green fields and along coastal Northern Ireland, so pretty. Before we knew it, we arrived in Belfast and headed towards good old American Holiday Inn Express by a cool LondonZ style lorrie. Our stay was a de-luxe accommodation with full breakfast for the morning before we zip out to our Dublin coach. We checked in and made contact with Eleanor.

For the brief time we had, Eleanor escorted us through some high points of her school tour which she does for incoming Queen’s law students. She was awesome!

We cruised the streets and alleys of the campus towards signficant buildings of the city including downtown neighborhood shops and student haunts. The most impressive area for me was the alley called The Duke of York where talented artists created murals of famous Irish men and women, living and dead. A magnificent and colorful tribute. After our jaunt, we three enjoyed breakfast for dinner, truly our last chance to have a full Irish breakfast of sausage, bacon, egg, potato hash, potato bread, beans, and fresh tomato and mushrooms.

When she deposited us back to our hotel, we said our goodbyes and gave our last hugs to sweet Eleanor. Makes me realize again how blessed we are to have such good friends from our Holy Names days. Cat and I had a wonderful time in Northern Ireland with Cora, Eleanor, and Kelly – they gave us so many priceless memories to take back home, duty free!! Slainte! We’ll be back again.

Queen’s University, Belfast, Northern Ireland

Sweet girls, talking, savoring Belfast

See anyone famous??

In the alley to The Duke of York

June 28 – Our last day in Derry

Jul7

Our last day to enjoy Derry – we filled it with a thrift shop visits in the walled city to see if we could find a treasure piece to take home.

The “charity” stores focus on specific purposes – children’s hospital, cancer research – and do business side-by-side with the jewelers, Irish crafts, and café businesses. We poked around without luck and had a bite to eat. Irish stew with brown bread for me.

Cora and Kelly met up with us and the girls trekked back home. Cora had a couple of antique shops that could have what I’d hoped to find all afternoon, an Irish teapot. And we got lucky. It’s silver with a scalloped pot, so eye-catching. Cora thinks it has ivory trim inset on the handle – a take home piece adopted by a grateful American.

Heading back to Clarence House, we decided to have our last dinner out. Lamb shank and pasta with cocktails – it’s nice to have a legal-aged daughter to dine with. Tomorrow, Belfast.

Irish stew for lunch.

A last look at Clarence House. Cora’s place is two doors away.

On our way to the rail station, farewell, Derry.

June 27 – Omagh and the Ulster American Folk Park

Jul6

Today, Cora drove is to Omagh to visit the American Folk Park. I remember passing it during the bus ride. Hailed as the birthplace of an iconic Irish-American banker, Thomas Mellon, the park preserves the important history of Irish emigration. A beautiful, wooded walk-around plan lets you visit rebuilt and original home structures of the mid-19th century. One original building on the property is the homestead in which Mellon was born. Living history docents dressed in clothing of the time inform visitors on the significance of each building and family’s contribution to the community. Innovation, creativity, and honest hardiness of spirit fed the emigrants’ desires to persevere and achieve their Irish-American dreams. Our visit was time well spent.

Returning to Derry, the cloudiness brought some rain in the late afternoon, not long but refreshing. We had an early dinner together with Kelly at the nearby Masala Pizza Restaurant – no kidding. The family runs a takeaway pizza shop on street level and serves pizza and delicious Masala entrees in its 2nd-floor restaurant. Super delicious meal and great conversation over Kelly’s afternoon movie matinee, Transformers. She highly recommends it!

Later, Cora walked us up to the neighborhood pub for a late night drink. A less crowded and much quieter spot, we enjoyed the locals’ hideaway and had time to unwind before bedtime. Tomorrow is a day on our own in town.

Cat chats with curious feathered residents at the Mellon home. Notice the butter churn behind her.

A staged upstairs room, simple but useful.

A recreated village store and docent.

Still light at 10 pm.

We have arrived at the pub.

June 26 – a Day on our own

Jul4

Cora took Eleanor to the train depot this morning – she had to return to Queen’s in Belfast but we would see her there at week’s end. Cat and I spent the day doing laundry and having our own walk around. Two blocks away, we went to the River Foyle and headed towards the Peace Bridge, a pedestrian bridge across the Foyle uniting the Catholic and Protestant sides of Derry. We had sandwiches at a little cafe, then navigated back over to the Guildhall for a history lesson about old Londonderry’s birth as a town long ago.

Returning back to our house, we caught our breath, checked in with Cora and our drying laundry, then made dinner in Clarence House. The house is occupied by student lodgers and the girls, from US, Donegal, Columbia, and Barcelona, were all lovely to visit with. Tomorrow, another day.

The Peace Bridge

The lovely River Foyle

The Guildhall

June 25 – Sunday drive

Jul4

We four attended Mass at St. Eugene Cathedral located two blocks away – its great youth choir sang wonderfully. After a simple breakfast at neighborhood Brooke Park, we planned an afternoon drive through County Donegal. First stop, the ancient 12th century stone fortress of Grianan of Aileach with a far off view of the River Foyle and the green Northern Ireland countryside. Sheep galore along the route! Next, we drove to the water’s edge to see Dunlee, a strategic U.S. military post in WWII.

Then, Cora drove us to Swan Park for a loop walk along its river park and the coastal beach walk which she loves. Heading out of Donegal over and through hills of family dairies and sheep ranches, we paused for pub drinks then hit the road back to Derry. Picking up Kelly, Eleanor’s younger sister, we feasted on pizza. A great day out of doors.

Carbo-loading with an Irish breakfast.

Grainan of Aileach – Cat and Eleanor along the walk.

Sweet girls catching up…

Whimsical faery house along Swan Park’s walking path. These abodes pop up everywhere in Northern Ireland wooded spaces, a tradition to house the wee spirits.

June 23 – To Derry We Will Go

Jul3

Dublin has been lovely to know but now, off to Derry we go! Dear friend Cora and her daughters Eleanor and Kelly await us for a few days. They are a part of our Holy Names High School family, returned home for a while, and we feel lucky to be able to see them after a year or so. Eleanor studies law at Queen’s University in Belfast and has come home in time to spend it with us.

The Busarus Station in Dublin had a 12:15 bus trip that took us through beautiful, green spaces dotted with cozy, colorful farmhouses and well-manicured gardens and fields. We packed sandwiches and other goodies to enjoy on the trip. Friendly riders gave us a seated tour of the areas and villages we passed through. Now and then we dozed while weaving our way towards Northern Ireland (U.K.) and our final destination.

Cora picked us up as planned – it was so great to see her. She delivered us to Clarence House, two doors from her place, then dashed off to pick up Eleanor from her rail trip from Belfast. We had a reunion dinner near their Lawrence Hill neighborhood. After we entered the walled part of Derry to Pather’s Pub to enjoy live music and a Guinness, or two.

Waiting at the depot.