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July 3 – Sainte Chapelle

Slept in today, nothing planned. The weather cleared and I felt it warming up. Slowly I got going and made myself a drip coffee. M&S sold a box of 10 drip coffee by-the-cup and they’re great. Once done, I decided to meet Sainte Chapelle, the one place I missed on my last trip.

Deciding to eat before it gets too late, I had a quick “hot dog au gratin” while sitting at the fountain at St. Michel to people watch. Then, I made the short but crowded walk to the Ile and got in the short line to the site. Sainte Chapelle is on the property of the old palais. Today, the palace houses the city’s Palace of Justice. Security is tight here because of the daily access to police services. Once inside the main walls, I see how the 13th century chapel sits attached to the larger building, the former palais. I followed around the fenced church to the chapel’s public entrance where I bought my ticket and the 3€ audio (always a good thing).

Ground level was reserved for worshippers who served the royals in the palace. Dark, simple, but beautiful, the space now serves as partial gift shop with information stations along the sides.

Next, I climbed 32 steps up a narrow stone passage (one on each side of the entrance wall) to reach the main level of the chapel. Stepping out into the nave, Sainte Chapelle’s glorious stained glass windows fill my view. King Louis IX attended Mass with his family here seven centuries ago. The windows told wonderful stories of devotion to Our Lord and highlighted the journeyed process of the King to obtain relics of Jesus Christ. He charged his ever-faithful mother, Blanche of Castile (Spain), with the task to travel to Constantinople to bid on the sacred objects, the Crown of Thorns and wood pieces of the Cross. Sainte Chapelle would be home of the heavenly King’s reliquary and through possession, Louis would be blessed and seen as France’s earthly king. King Louis tasked builders to include his mother in the stained glass window scenes to honor her. Later, he would obtain other significant relics to the collection including the Lance that pierced Jesus. Some of the pieces were lost or destroyed over time and the wars waged, but some still exist, housed in separate locations in France. King Louis IX established many of the tenets of the justice system we hold dear today, like innocent until proven guilty. Known all his life as compassionate, especially to the poor, and a generous, wise ruler, he was canonized as Saint Louis, the only French king to become a saint.

How can a French gratin hot dog be bad? Yummy with The Real Thing!

Fountain at Blvd. St. Michel. – isn’t it lovely?

The Blessed Mother greets me.

My first look at the royal Sainte Chapelle, upper level.

See where the reliquary would rest, the recreated gold box above the sanctuary.

June 29  – A day in Belfast

Our day began catching the 1:30 train from Derry to Belfast where we would enjoy visiting with Eleanor at Queen’s U. The relaxing rail ride took us away from our Derry friends into green fields and along coastal Northern Ireland, so pretty. Before we knew it, we arrived in Belfast and headed towards good old American Holiday Inn Express by a cool LondonZ style lorrie. Our stay was a de-luxe accommodation with full breakfast for the morning before we zip out to our Dublin coach. We checked in and made contact with Eleanor.

For the brief time we had, Eleanor escorted us through some high points of her school tour which she does for incoming Queen’s law students. She was awesome!

We cruised the streets and alleys of the campus towards signficant buildings of the city including downtown neighborhood shops and student haunts. The most impressive area for me was the alley called The Duke of York where talented artists created murals of famous Irish men and women, living and dead. A magnificent and colorful tribute.  After our jaunt, we three enjoyed breakfast for dinner, truly our last chance to have a full Irish breakfast of sausage, bacon, egg, potato hash, potato bread, beans, and fresh tomato and mushrooms.

When she deposited us back to our hotel, we said our goodbyes and gave our last hugs to sweet Eleanor. Makes me realize again how blessed we are to have such good friends from our Holy Names days. Cat and I had a wonderful time in Northern Ireland with Cora, Eleanor, and Kelly – they gave us so many priceless memories to take back home, duty free!! Slainte! We’ll be back again.

Queen’s University, Belfast, Northern Ireland

Sweet girls, talking, savoring Belfast

See anyone famous??

In the alley to The Duke of York

June 28 – Our last day in Derry

Our last day to enjoy Derry – we filled it with a thrift shop visits in the walled city to see if we could find a treasure piece to take home.

The “charity” stores focus on specific purposes – children’s hospital, cancer research – and do business side-by-side with the jewelers, Irish crafts, and café businesses. We poked around without luck and had a bite to eat. Irish stew with brown bread for me.

Cora and Kelly met up with us and the girls trekked back home. Cora had a couple of antique shops that could have what I’d hoped to find all afternoon, an Irish teapot. And we got lucky.  It’s silver with a scalloped pot, so eye-catching. Cora thinks it has ivory trim inset on the handle – a take home piece adopted by a grateful American.

Heading back to Clarence House, we decided to have our last dinner out. Lamb shank and pasta with cocktails – it’s nice to have a legal-aged daughter to dine with. Tomorrow, Belfast.

Irish stew for lunch.

A last look at Clarence House. Cora’s place is two doors away.

On our way to the rail station, farewell, Derry.

June 27 – Omagh and the Ulster American Folk Park

Today, Cora drove is to Omagh to visit the American Folk Park. I remember passing it during the bus ride. Hailed as the birthplace of an iconic Irish-American banker, Thomas Mellon, the park preserves the important history of Irish emigration. A beautiful, wooded walk-around plan lets you visit rebuilt and original home structures of the mid-19th century. One original building on the property is the homestead in which Mellon was born. Living history docents dressed in clothing of the time inform visitors on the significance of each building and family’s contribution to the community. Innovation, creativity, and honest hardiness of spirit fed the emigrants’ desires to persevere and achieve their Irish-American dreams. Our visit was time well spent.

Returning to Derry, the cloudiness brought some rain in the late afternoon, not long but refreshing. We had an early dinner together with Kelly at the nearby Masala Pizza Restaurant – no kidding. The family runs a takeaway pizza shop on street level and serves pizza and delicious Masala entrees in its 2nd-floor restaurant. Super delicious meal and great conversation over Kelly’s afternoon movie matinee, Transformers. She highly recommends it!

Later, Cora walked us up to the neighborhood pub for a late night drink. A less crowded and much quieter spot, we enjoyed the locals’ hideaway and had time to unwind before bedtime. Tomorrow is a day on our own in town.

Cat chats with curious feathered residents at the Mellon home. Notice the butter churn behind her.

A staged upstairs room, simple but useful.

A recreated village store and docent.

Still light at 10 pm.

We have arrived at the pub.

June 26 – a Day on our own

Cora took Eleanor to the train depot this morning – she had to return to Queen’s in Belfast but we would see her there at week’s end.  Cat and I spent the day doing laundry and having our own walk around. Two blocks away, we went to the River Foyle and headed towards the Peace Bridge, a pedestrian bridge across the Foyle uniting the Catholic and Protestant sides of Derry. We had sandwiches at a little cafe, then navigated back over to the Guildhall for a history lesson about old Londonderry’s birth as a town long ago.

Returning back to our house, we caught our breath, checked in with Cora and our drying laundry, then made dinner in Clarence House. The house is occupied by student lodgers and the girls, from US, Donegal, Columbia, and Barcelona, were all lovely to visit with.  Tomorrow, another day.

The Peace Bridge

The lovely River Foyle

The Guildhall

June 25 – Sunday drive

We four attended Mass at St. Eugene Cathedral located two blocks away –  its great youth choir sang wonderfully. After a simple breakfast at neighborhood Brooke Park, we planned an afternoon drive through County Donegal. First stop, the ancient 12th century stone fortress of Grianan of Aileach with a far off view of the River Foyle and the green Northern Ireland countryside. Sheep galore along the route! Next, we drove to the water’s edge to see Dunlee, a strategic U.S. military post in WWII.

Then, Cora drove us to Swan Park for a loop walk along its river park and the coastal beach walk which she loves. Heading out of Donegal over and through hills of family dairies and sheep ranches, we paused for pub drinks then hit the road back to Derry.  Picking up Kelly, Eleanor’s younger sister, we feasted on pizza. A great day out of doors.

Carbo-loading with an Irish breakfast.

Grainan of Aileach – Cat and Eleanor along the walk.

Sweet girls catching up…

Whimsical faery house along Swan Park’s walking path. These abodes pop up everywhere in Northern Ireland wooded spaces, a tradition to house the wee spirits.

June 23 – To Derry We Will Go

Dublin has been lovely to know but now, off to Derry we go!  Dear friend Cora and her daughters Eleanor and Kelly await us for a few days.  They are a part of our Holy Names High School family, returned home for a while, and we feel lucky to be able to see them after a year or so.  Eleanor studies law at Queen’s University in Belfast and has come home in time to spend it with us.

The Busarus Station in Dublin had a 12:15 bus trip that took us through beautiful, green spaces dotted with cozy, colorful farmhouses and well-manicured gardens and fields.  We packed sandwiches and other goodies to enjoy on the trip.  Friendly riders gave us a seated tour of the areas and villages we passed through.  Now and then we dozed while weaving our way towards Northern Ireland (U.K.) and our final destination.

Cora picked us up as planned – it was so great to see her. She delivered us to Clarence House, two doors from her place, then dashed off to pick up Eleanor from her rail trip from Belfast. We had a reunion dinner near their Lawrence Hill neighborhood. After we entered the walled part of Derry to Pather’s Pub to enjoy live music and a Guinness, or two.

Waiting at the depot.

Our Derry nest, Clarence House

Reunion dinner, Cat and Eleanor

One gate at The Wall.

Live Dublin pub musicians. “Oh, oh, I wish I was back home in Derry!”

June 24 – Derry the Walled City

Ahh, it’s good to sleep in!  Not exactly sure if it’s jet-lag, the time change, or Vacay relaxation kicking in but we need to step it up if we want to keep up with Cora and Eleanor.

Eleanor’s good recommendation for us was to take the City Tour of the Wall – it was a perfect introduction to this grand port city.  So much history here in Ireland with the earliest people struggling to survive then having to contend with northern invaders.  Fast forward to 17th century struggles between King James I and William of Orange, the Catholics, the Protestants and then most recently to The Troubles of the 60’s, 70’s, and 80’s.  This town has lived to survive, with reconciliation paving the way to peace and unity.  On the wall promenade, we saw and heard stories of the two sides of Derry which are now committed to remembering the lives lost and planning for its peaceful future.

For dinner, we ate at Clarence house, delicious fish pies, salad, and wine.

Atop the wide Wall that overlooks Derry.

Inside the city, St. Columb’s Cathedral, 1623.

Looking out onto modern Derry and the neighborhood where The Troubles of the 70’s played out. Murals of remembrance are painted on some of the walls down below.  Now, there’s peace.

Off we go! — June 20-22

Packed and ready to go, Cat and I took BART to SFO Tuesday morning with a suitcase each under 40 pounds, oh, yeah!  We are SO ready, although I must admit that “winging it” as I am for our Ireland visit is just a bit scary.  We have the first two nights lodging, plans made for how much we want to tackle, and a plan to express-bus ourselves to Londonderry by week’s end.  Let’s see how it goes.

SFO to NJ to Dublin, what a trek.  A humungous 777, brand spankin’ new.  We slept as much as our bodies would allow which was good because the flight to Dublin took longer.  Before we get to that, our seat mate was so sweet.  Miriam L., a Dublin native, flew home from the summer to be with family after six months dancing in the North America/Canada regional company of “Riverdance.”  She was a delight!  Cat and I decided we would see the Dublin performance in which Miriam will dance and she will meet us at the side stage door after to say hi.

Having settled event on-flight, we ended up sitting on the tarmac in Dublin for over an hour due to IT flight problems between North America and Dublin.  When we finally disembarked, we quickly collected our luggage and headed to Dublin town.  An easy airport coach delivered us into an ancient city centre, lovely cobbled streets, narrow sidewalks, super colorful shop fronts, and a pub on every corner.  Lots of people enjoying the hottest day on record since 1974 — a sweltering 93 degrees Fahrenheit!!  Cat and I literally melted.  We checked into The Central Hotel, napped a bit then went out to explore.

Thursday was a terrific day.  Sleeping in till past 10 a.m., we picked up breakfast at a local coffee shop: scrambled eggs and Irish sausage with toast and an Americano coffee for me and a chicken Caesar wrap for Cat.  We wandered around the neighborhood, between stores, pubs, and shoppers before heading back to The Central to meet Caroline Dee Brown, a longtime, dear friend of our friend Fran.  Caroline was lovely – she took us a few blocks down and around to the National Museum where we saw ancient relics from early days of invaders, beautiful bronze metal necklaces and cloak clips.  After a few minutes of looking, we headed to the cafe where we enjoyed delicious Irish tea and yummy pastries.  It felt like we’ve known her longer than the time we spent catching her up about our recently retired Fran and sharing news about our families.  A super wonderful time for both me and Cat meeting a new friend!

More window shopping and a nice dinner at the Boulevard Cafe that included refreshing rose wine to toast the beginning of our journey.  Relatively quiet compared to the 2 a.m. PARTIES from all the pubs that surrounded us… but that’s another story.